The only description I found of Stabilitrak said that it will use the brakes at each wheel in an attempt to make the vehicle go where the front tires happen to be pointed. This is meant to help with preventing rollover.
If you power out from a stop and then snap into a 90 degree turn on a slippery surface, the vehicle is going to keep going straight across the road until you back off the gas a little. That's inertia speaking. No fancy system is going to help with that.
Throttle modulation and being aware of what the four "contact patches" are doing is the key to safe winter driving. I've found that just a touch "too much" throttle doing a 90 from rest is what mine likes- just enough to bring the rear end around in line with the front, but not enough to start a spin.
Conversely, it's important not to ever back off of the throttle too quickly in slippery or slushy conditions. Doing that on ice will throw you into a slide, and doing it with the front wheels in slush will allow the slush to take over the directional control of the vehicle. It is necessary to keep enough power on such that the front wheels will go where you point them, and then it's really necessary to keep pointing them in the direction you want to go. I can't begin to count the number of FWD cars I've seen come barreling past me in the left lane on relatively good pavement, hit the county line where the snow removal services changes in nature, get into slush, back off the throttle and go looping across the median.
Getting to know the vehicle and its reaction to various inputs on various surfaces is essential. After all, if Scott Harvey was able to win the Upper Peninsula POR ralley year after year in a 2 ton rear wheel drive Chrysler 300 letter on shit tires (compared to what we have today) then it is obviously not the equipment that's important, it's the driver.
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